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Wednesday, December 27, 2006

A long awaited update

Wednesday, Dec 27 2006 6:24am IST
Bagar, Rajasthan


Its 6:24 in the morning on a very very cold night (day?). And I find myself sitting in my bed, writing a journal entry after quite a wait.

The cold yes – its cold here! It used to go down to 6 degrees C (low 40s) at night – tonight its quite a bit lower. It rained yesterday during the day, which dropped the temperature. And this morning it is still raining. And the fog has come in quite thick.

This effectively puts a halt to my plans of getting out and finally running after over a week’s break. Well, I could tough it out - the bijli (electricity) will go out at 7, and not much happening this early in the day during the winter times (even the shops start opening at 8 in the market).

I digress – lets get back to the topic at hand – what HAVE I been upto in the last couple of months (I think it has been that long since my last update):

Ah yes, I believe my last late night excitable post was around completely switching my focus area here from computer utilization to solar power. There were quite a few reasons behind that – mainly that in the weeks preceding it, I’d been trying to assess the needs for computer utilization in the community. And maybe it was my lack of skill in doing a needs assessment or applying technology to rural India, but there weren’t too many areas that I was coming out with where technology could be applied to a certain audience to reap some great benefits. And from all my ‘research’ – i.e. looking at papers and cases studies – the greatest need that computers tended to address in a rural setting was that of connectivity. A VSAT link to the Internet can provide remote communities the kind of access to information that can make significant impact on their lives: the weather forecast for a fishing village, the mandi (market) price of agricultural produce for a farmer, ability to quickly and cheaply communicate with loved ones, suppliers, buyers, doctors, government officials, specialists in the bigger towns and the bustling cities.

And for a rural setting, Bagar is quite well connected. On the Jaipur-Pilani state highway, it is exactly halfway between two major town: 15kms east from Jhunjhunu, the district headquarters, and 15kms west from Chirawa. Pilani, another major town (famous for the Birla Institute of Technology and Science – BITS) is another 15km from Chirawa. Buses ply to these cities every 15 minutes or so, throughout the night, and also to Jaipur and Delhi every hour or so.



If road connectivity is decent, telecom connectivity is even better. There are 5 cellphone towers in this town of 15,000, as well as landline phone connectivity. Commercial internet is available at dialup (and a bit faster) speeds via the landline or the cellphone (we use the Reliance cellphone – twice the speed of dialup).

A decent percentage of the populace reads the newspapers quite regularly. It also helps having 3 newspaper agencies in town, as well as a library that stocks 11 dailies (including 3 in English).
Now the picture isn’t all that rosy either – there may be access to Internet, but almost no one uses it. And the nearness to the major towns keeps the local businesses from expanding (there is just better price, quality and choice to be found in the bigger towns).

And computer utilization itself? Surprisingly, there was some. There were 2 computer centres (1 a real permanent centres, another was a guy with two computers, now closed) providing basic computer education. Most of the schools also had computer labs (built when the Rajasthan government made computer education mandatory – and abandoned when it reversed that decision a couple of years later). The private schools do continue to teach computers though. The photo studios, printing and music guys all had computers for their own uses. And by most estimates, there were around 50 private computer owners in town.

What it all boiled down to, in my mind, was that I couldn’t find a burning ‘need’ for computer technology in this town. It just didn’t seem like a development priority – there just were bigger issues e.g. a consistent supply of power in the adjoining dhaanis (little villages).

Here’s how that obviously changed. Our team lead/manager/staff person here was convinced that I had zero/zilch/0 motivation to continue with the computer technology area, and recommended I just focus on something of my liking (hence solar power). Two days later though, we had a visit from the founder/director of Indicorps – Anand. He made a couple of simple yet powerful observations (yet again highlighting the power of the outside perspective):

1. We had a lot more resources than we’d anticipated/assumed (it was way comfortable living compared to village life, we were well connected, we had the funds and influence to back us, the population had money to support some sort of commercial venture etc). However, instead of being more empowered because of the resources at hand, we’d managed to make ourselves feel less empowered because of this.
2. There are still tremendous opportunities to develop this town. He put it in a way that still rings with me: “Ask yourselves – would you live in this town? Then let’s work to make this a place that you’d want to live in”. Our task here then was not to take this town from 0-30, it was to take this from 50-100, a place that can compete with the best of India.

These two facts had quite an impact on my thinking about my project – I have the money, I had commercial Internet, I had a basic seed of a computer literate population – let me use it! And yah, there is so much more that I did with computers back in the US, there has to be tremendous potential here for the same. And so what if this maybe something that is not needed – its something that raises the bar. A few weeks later I would come up with an analogy: Just because there are a few students behind in a class, the teacher cannot ignore the ones who are ahead. We can’t wait to only focus on the kids that are behind and bring everybody upto a basic level. We have to continue to move the class ahead, and continue raise the standards for everybody.

My experiment here then was not that of need. It was of potential.

A few things came out of that visit – I decided to stick to computer tech utilization as my project. There was yet another cycle of project planning and proposal writing. As mandated, we travelled to seek answers and much-needed inspiration from other organizations in India doing similar work.

And I managed to make peace with what I’m doing here.

Saturday, November 04, 2006

युं हीं (Just like that)

हीरालालजी सैनी बन रहे थे सेठ

हीरालालजी सैनी का मोटा हो रहा था पेट

पेड़े खाए अनेक, जिन पर लग रहा था गुलाब

खाते ही गए भय्या, लग गया जोरों से जुलाब

फिर दूसरा दिन जब आया, तब दबा के खाए पकवान

पेट पकड़ कर बोल उठे, "हाए रे मेरे भगवान"

ये क्या किया तुमने, कैसा यह कमाल,

तेरे ही चाहने से तो हुआ है, मेरे पेट मे यह धमाल

"मूरख", क्रोध मे आए भगवन, यह तो तेरे लालच का है प्रमाण

अपने पेट की ही सीमा को भूल गया, बनने में तू धनवान

 

- आशीष


(Heeralalji is the guy who takes care of the guest house where we stay. He's actually really fit. I'm kind of teaching him how to type both in hindi and english, and I was showing him something. and then ended up making a sentence. and another that rhymed. and then typed this thing up in 20 mins.)



UPDATE - Nov 7


By popular demand, here's the transliteration of this poem. It's really a very simple foolish rhyme, but now you know for yourself:

Heeralaji Saini ban rahe the seth
Heeralalji Saini ka mota ho raha tha pet
Pede khaye anek, jin par lag raha tha gulab
Khate hi gaye bhaiyya, lag gaya zoron se julaab
Phir doosra din jab aaya, tab daba ke khaaye pakvaan
Paet pakad kar boil uthe, “Haaye re mere bhagwaan”
Ye kya kiya tumne, kaisa hai kamaal
Tere hi chaahne se to hua hai, mere paet mein yeh Dhamaal
“Moorakh”, krodh mein aaye bhagvan, yeh to tere laalach ka hai pramaan
Apne pet ki hi seema ko bhool gaya, banne mein tu dhanvaan

- Ashish

Thursday, November 02, 2006

So much to write, so little time

Alright - it's 12:58 in the night here (which is really really late for me). And I owe everybody a whopping humungous post (or many many many others), because so many things have happened in the last 6 weeks that I've been here in Bagar. And probably the biggest of all them happenings happened tonight - my project has been completely changed. From looking at computer technology utilization, I'm considering solar power. Again, many many reasons for it (project related and personal).

Anyways - I'm really excited about working on solar power. Really really.

BTW - today is Nov 2nd so, Happy Birthday Alvir!!!

(Alvir is also a fellow this year with Indicorps, probably doing great things in Jaisamand - district near Udaipur - south of Rajasthan, but more importantly, a great guy to meet in person).

Now back to typing up the rest of that documentation

Thursday, October 12, 2006

Lots going on this week

Sunday - have to finalize what I'm planning to do as my main project for the next two years (at least for the next six months). Likely that it's going to be around using computer technology for rural/semi-urban areas. Only thing that I'm convinced of so far is no matter what it is, an essential aspect of it is that the computing aspect of it must be in Hindi.

Which means I'm trying to learn Hindi typing. And I think I've pretty much got it down (speed requires a lot, but hey).

पर हम रविवार तक काफी व्यस्त रहेंगे, तो मुलाकात होती है उसके बाद।
(But I'm going to be busy till Sunday, so we'll meet after that!)

Yup - so other than that, two or three other pieces of documentation due on Sunday - promise to write up something after that.

P.S. I'll be in Bombay from the 18th to the 21st to meet my mom/grandfather. No cellphone service during that time (roaming doesn't really work with my cellphone plan). Call me on my Bombay home number in that time.

- आशीष

Thursday, September 28, 2006

Photo updates

Note - I wrote this on Sep 22.
Note - internet's quite slow. the picture's will come when the come.
Note - just spent a long time REALLY late in the night uploading these pics here. More later.



So I guess it's time for a little pictorial update. It's been almost a week since I got to my project site in Bagar, Rajasthan. And it's been a series of ups and downs. Dealing with the heat, but liking the good. Connecting with the rest of the team members, and discovering with the indifference and cynicism of some (many?) of the locals here. Discovering some very peaceful temples, and contending with the completely whacked sleep cycle (maybe it's the heat, I don't know).

Now, this week has been all about going out into Bagar and getting a taste for it. More importantly, there hasn't been any picture taking. So, this pictoral update is largely going to be taking you through orientation.



Saw this pic on the amazing race. It reads, "Technology Japani, Dil Hindustani" i.e. Japanese Technology, Indian Heart


Map that Indicorps put together outlining all the projects Indicorps has done so far. We are the big round circle of red dots in the Northwest (state of Rajasthan).


A close up, detailing all the projects for 2006-2007


So, one of the NGOs that Indicorps is closely aligned to is one called 'Manav Sadhna' that works quite closely with the Gandhian philosphy. The founder, Jayesh Bhai, also happens to be the son of Ishwar Kaka, who is the director of the Environmental Santitation Insitute (where our orientation was taking place). Anyways - Jayesh Bhai had come to give a discourse on a service-related topic. Before starting, one of the Manav Sadhna volunteers had made this 'rangoli' - a traditional Indian thing where you make designs/patterns using colours - with the Manav Sadhna motto - Love All, Serve All. As you can probably tell, they serve all faiths.


Jayesh Bhai and I. This was while he was giving us a tour of HridayKunj - Gandhiji's house at Gandhi Ashram. Most famous as the place where the Salt March started.


Gandhiji's office, with all the original furniture. I remember the place having quite a feel of reverence to it. Maybe it was in my head - still a powerful place to be in.


So, Ishwar Kaka is part of the Ahmedabad Laughing Club - a group of guys who exercise and believe in the power of laugh. A lot of their laughing exercises are really goofy - so if you're not laughing with them, you're definitely laughing at them. Can't question the efficacy of that approach though. Good times, good times


Last couple of days of orientation - a list of all the information sessions we had


This is me with the campus manager of the place - Jaidev Bhai. He can be a pretty goofy character, and him and I really got along. This is us goofing around on the morning of when I left for Jaipur/Bagar.


This is actually in Bagar. I have titled this one "Feast". Sheel, if you're reading this, I'm sure that like me, you couldn't help but think that 'Vando Nathi' has a pretty good life to look forward to.


Sunrise in Bagar the next morning taken from the place we're staying in. I did some sharpening or whatever to the image - the colours are all untouched.


Pigeons flocking at sunrise on top of the water tank.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Heading out for Bagar today

Yay for finally starting the project. It's been an absolutely inspirational month during Indicorps orientation. I was thinking about this yesterday during one of the lessons learned sessions from the staff/founders. If I was running this thing - then my job was almost done yesterday. I would have managed to find and bring some quite inspirational people that just want to serve their country. And I've prepared and provoked and inspired them in the last month. Now it's really upto them.

Anyhoo - that still doesn't take away from the excitement of finally beginning this journey. Although I must admit, right now I do have butterflies in my stomach. Then again, it might be the general Indian stomach syndrome (maybe I could come up with a catchy name for it - like General Abdominal Syndrome (GAS)).

I'm out for now. Will leave you with a few thoughts/quotes:

1.
"Kuch to karo yaar"


Loose translation "Dude, do something at least". Saw this on the t-shirt of some volunteer at Manav Sadhna (an NGO that is close to Indicorps). This has pretty much been my motto in the last week or two. It reverberates with me so powerfully, becuase maybe it encapsulates in 4 words why I came here, and what it is that I want to do.

2.
"Philosophers have interpreted the world n many different ways. The point, however, is to change it."

A 2-yr fellow/staff during orientation mentioned this as his motto. Pretty powerful quote in my mind.


3.
"Fear is not a good enough reason for you not to do something"

One of the staff members, who heard it from Mark and John of friendshipwithoutborders.org. Check out the video if you haven't.

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

btw

So a little background on what these photos mean (I was runing quite late last time):

This is a photo of a vendor selling cricket bats on the streets of Ahmedabad (near the Bhadra Kali fort area if you're familiar). The photograph to me is like your typical touristy one, and I took it completely by accident during the Amazing Race we did (see blog below). But to me it signifies the pace of life, the diversity/stratification of India. It's awesome yaar ;-)



This was my random act of kindness - one of the tasks during the amazing race. I helped a banana vendor push his cart for a bit. There were two carts, and one of the other guy on my team took the other one. His vendor seemed to be a little agitated about him doing it, mine was a little cooler about it. I kinda don't like it because the sentiment is such a shallow one - it's almost like a photo opp. Definitely going to remind myself not to take pictures just to make me feel better about myself. There's gotta be a stronger connection/emotion/reason behind it.



This is a picture of all of us on the first day. There's 21 fellows, and other staff members. There are some kids from a high school in the back. Our activity was to take 3-7 kids each on our very first day and take them to Gandhinagar Gardens and just hang out. Made some really strong connections, and had some jhakaas fun (jhakaas being a very Bombay term - I'm not exactly sure what it even means). Anyhoo - it rained, but it was just a great way to get of our shell and pretension - at least for me.


anybody know how to upload images to blogger?

alive and kicking

So as an update – I'm alive, I'm well, I'm thriving. I haven't had access to the Internet since Aug 14, so I apologize to all those who have been trying to get in touch with me (and to all those that I promised to keep in touch with).

I'm here at Environmental Santitation Insititute in the village of Sughad, 20 mins from the Ahmedabad, the commercial capital of the state of Gujarat in India. It's a pretty neat place, the accommodation is pretty nice. The entire insititute is built around the principles of sanitation (of course), water conservation, conserving energy and planting trees. I think the most remarkable fact is that no water comes from the outside at all – they recycle and harvest all the water they need.

Anyways, it's been 20 or so days into the Indicorps orientation, and it certainly has had quite a bit of effect on me. One of the main changes is that how little I actually need, versus how much I want. Only way to learn the simple life is to experience it. And there is no substitute for the humility thereof. Waking up every morning before 6, meditation or yoga for half an hour, followed by rotating cleaning duties (cleaning the main campus areas, cleaning your dorm, helping out in the kitchen or going for a silent morning walk). It teaches you pride in your work, it teaches you the value of keeping clean and not trashing things around. It also teaches you that little water and/or limited means are absolutely no bar to perfect sanitation. Cleaning your own dishes with minimal water after every meal teaches you that. Washing your own clothes by hand every 4 th day teaches you that. It also taught me that I can live on 4 pairs of clothes – yup, that's all I got, 4 pairs of kurta pyjamas (Indian-styled shirt and pants). I bought another kurta (shirt) here, because if you skip a laundry day, it puts you into a jam. But that's it. That's the clothes I exercise in. sleep in. work in. clean in. and you manage. True – I don't smell the best by the end of the day, but it's doable. And that's what's important. On an equally important note, having almost all-white clothes is a bad bad bad idea in India, where it's dusty, you sit/work/exercise on the ground, and more importantly, wash your clothes by hand.

Some of the most memorable things we've done – the day activity where all of us spent time working with people of the lower economic status in an urban setting. I spent 5 hours working with a 10 yr old boot-polisher, who basically walked around looking for business. There were people who went rag-picking in garbage piles, people who worked with seamstresses, people who worked with street vegetable vendors, people who worked with 'chaiwallas' – the tea stalls so common place all over India. It was just so eye-opening to experience firsthand the way these people live. And I think what opened us up and made us comfortable with this might have been the 2/3 days where we worked inside Ahmedabad's largest slum providing flood relief. People went in to play with the kids, bathe them, go house to house and administer first aid (or simply cut their nails – as I did). But more than anything, talk and interact with these people, to really get a sense of what things are like. I've lived in India before, and I was absolutely surprised how little I knew, and how many assumptions I went in with (and were broken). Not everybody's dirty. Not everyone's unhappy. Not everyone's unscrupulous. The kids just want to laugh, the parents just want to get back into their homes and back to their lives, despite whatever floods might have happened. Yes, sanitation is not perfect, and there is a long way to go with that, but then again, there is also quite a cohesive sense of community.

On Monday we came back from a 3 day village stay in the Saurashtra region in Western Gujarat. All of us had a fantastically different experience. Mine was great – my host family was relatively quite well off at the village. It was also near the end of the monsoon season, so the fields were all full and green. My guy (Narayanbhai Ramjibhai – in Gujarat they seem to say their name and their father's name – bhai means brother) was growing a bunch of things – almost everything – predominantly cotton and peanuts, but also toor daal (yellow Indian lentil), turai, doodi, karela, bhindi (okra) – all Indian vegetables, sugarcane, chauli (black eyed peas), gwar, everything. And yes, they obviously had cows and buffalos for the milk, which they also used to make their own butter and ghee and sell it (btw – homemade butter's pretty darn good). I got there late on Saturday night, where we had rotla (thick, very thick gujarati rotis made of bajra) and karele ki sabji (bitter gourd). We then went to the bachat mandal (savings group) meeting. While the meeting was going on, one of the guys there also took me to the local grocery store to chit-chat with some of the locals gathered there. It was also cool to see a big old barrel of petrol with a hand pump being used. Anyhoo – the next morning was when the work really started. After a breakfast of gehoon ki rotli (wheat roti, not as thick) and milk (served with every meal, done really well here by adding sugar and elaichi). anyways, overall, kickass experience. more on that later.
another awesome thing was this 'amazing race' in teams around the town of ahmedabad. really got a feel for how to move around a city in India, negotiate with people, deal with people etc. don't know if this will work - but i'l trying to put a picture of me doing a random act of kindness, one of the requirements of our race. cool shtuff overall.
This is me with the random act of kindness - helping push the cart for a banana vendor:
rest later. been replying to emails solid for the last hour and a half. sorry if i wasn't able to get to someone (although i'm pretty sure i did).
- ashish

Friday, August 11, 2006

Safely in India, and more

Hi Everyone,
 
Greetings from not-so-sunny Mumbai! It's nice and around 80F (all day), and uncharacteristically for the monsoon season, it actually hasn't rained much in the last two days (touchwood). Not the case for the rest of the country, however. I awoke (on Thurs morning India time) to find that all trains to Ahmedabad (the city which I'm going to on Monday) had been cancelled. This was due to severe flooding in the industrial town of Surat, which is en route to Ahmedabad. Flood waters had been between 8-15 feet in the city in some cases. Surat is also en route to Delhi, which means the very important rail service from Mumbai to Delhi had also been suspended. That is very bad news for business, and in India, business is on everybody's mind these days.
 
The flight from Chicago to New Jersey was uneventful. Not so in New Jersey though. They boarded everybody on time, and then after boarding realized a radio needed to be fixed. After half an hour, they abandoned hopes of fixing it, and decided to move everybody to another aircraft. After another hour or so, we finally boarded. We then waited on the tarmac for an hour and half, due to, yup, catering delays. Then we couldn't back out of the gate coz somebody else was blocking it. Mind you, having not slept at all the night before, I was at best severely groggy during this whole wait, so I can't complain much. I do remember freaking out when I realized the flight left 3 hours late (guess how long my layover in Amsterdam was - yup, 3 hours ;-)) I guess we must have made some time on the way to Amsterdam, coz I had 50 minutes to board (or so I though - apparently it was only 40 because they'd pushed the flight up 10 mins). Anyway, after a sprint to the gate, they let me board. The agent checking my passport/ticket etc was like, take a deep breath, you made it.
 
At which point I asked him about if my bags would make it.
 
His story went like this "oh yah, it shoud. no problems. <looks at watch> oh yah, it should have. Well, it depends on how long Continental can get it to the KLM crew. When did you say your flight landed? Oh, about 10 mins ago. Well, yah, hmm, maybe it should make it. Well, why don't I say it won't make it and that way if it does it'll be a reversal of fortune for the better, yah? <insert hopeful smile here>. You know, gots to be careful about what we say these days."
 
The security guys had a blast figuring out what my no-battery manually charging flashlight was. Boarded a surprisingly empty flight about 15 minutes before it was scheduled to leave. Suprisingly, two other people boarded after me.
 
I guess that's all from the cybercafe in Mumbai for now - rest on the trip will come soon. Keep in touch.
 
P.S. Funny thing about the bags. Only one of them made it. Funnier still, Northwest knew that before I even landed. They came in the flight last night, and were delivered to my house (earlier than promised) today. The Northwest guys knew the status of the bag all along, and even delivered the bag all sealed in plastic etc. Nice job to make up for lost baggage.
 
 
 

Tuesday, August 08, 2006

btw

the last post also marked the first successful test of the e-mail to blog facility of blogger.com.

Another note: Times displayed are now Indian Standard Time (GMT +5:30). So, with daylight savings on right now, 9 1/2 hours from US Eastern, 10 1/2 from US Central


I guess this is goodbye...

It's 4:33 on Tuesday morning, and I guess it's about time to get ready and head out to Chicago O'Hare airport, early to account for the Chicago traffic. Once there, I'll be trying to make the last minute phone calls to family and friends. Can't wait to have my friend meet me at Newark airport though. I'm still a sucker for a free meal ;-)

So with a heavy heart (and after many many rounds of it in the past two weeks), this is goodbye.

(We'll be back shortly after a brief transcontinental break.)

Monday, July 31, 2006

In case you're wondering where I'll be for most of the next two years

My program starts off on Aug 15 (yes, the Indian Independence Day) in Ahmedabad, the western state of Gujarat. After a month of orientation with all the other fellows there, I move onto my project site in Bagar, Rajasthan. It is close to the district headquarters (Jhunjhunu). The nearest famous city is Pilani, famous for the Birla Institute of Technology and Science (BITS).

To get a better feel for where I'll be, check out the following map on MSN Encarta. Bagar is just north-east of Jhunjhunu (spelt Jhunjhunun in Encarta).

http://encarta.msn.com/encnet/features/mapcenter/map.aspx?TextLatitude=39.45&TextLongitude=-98.907&TextAltitude=0&TextSelectedEntity=39070&SearchEnc=false&MapStyle=Comprehensive&MapSize=&MapStyleSelectedIndex=0&searchTextMap=jhunjhunun&MapStylesList=Comprehensive

Monday, July 10, 2006

About the Havelis in Bagar, Rajasthan

One of the other people on my project in Rajasthan forwarded this article recently. Definitely worth a look.



If the link is down, you can access the pdf from here: http://www.box.net/public/qmx124opfk

Anybody have any other articles to share. Kali, any first-hand experiences?

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Hi Everybody,

Welcome to my blog from India. As I am about to embark on my two years of community service in India, I hope to use this blog as a way to communicate and update all my friends, family and well-wishers on my experiences, my struggles and my successes.

You can track my progress in the coming months (and learn more about the organization) at the Indicorps website (www.indicorps.org). In case you're wondering what i'll be doing while I'm there, here's the project description (http://bigmuthuwarrior.googlepages.com/ashish%27sindicorpsproject)

Do stay tuned!

Update: Here's me posting a picture to my blog. Because apparently that's how you can upload a picture to your profile in blogger. So far it seems to be pretty HTML intensive - which I can definitely handle (and I like, coz it's you, tinkering with code). Wonder how the normal "junta" deals with it...